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Oot consists of two small villages belonging to Arab Oosmanany, the chief of the Arab Gudoor tribe, one containing about 50 and the other 25 houses. The baggage not having come up, the carpets were spread under the shade of a large tree, and we were quickly surrounded by the whole population, to whom our dress and appearance seemed to afford considerable amusement. Arab Oosmanany, the chief, was at the village waiting to conduct us to Beylah ; and being informed of our arrival came to pay us a visit, the whole of the villagers having been previously summoned to compose his retinue. In the course of conversation, I told him that amongst the presents there was one for him, which he begged might be delivered in the presence of the Jam. In the evening he sent us a sheep, with a quantity of flour, rice, ghee, &c., and requested we would let him know if we wanted any thing else.
At noon next day the Kossid who had been dispatched to Beylah the night before, to announce our approach, having returned, we left Oot accompanied by Arab Oosmanany and a small party of military followers. For the whole distance the road passed through a succession of cultivated ground, interspersed with small thickets composed of a high bushy tree which appears something like the willow. As we left Oot we met ten or twelve hideous looking beings dressed as women, and mounted on donkeys, who saluted us as they passed ; from their peculiarly disgusting appearance and bold manners, I was induced to inquire of my companion who they were: he laughed, and said they were eunuchs. Descending by a deep irregular water course into the dry bed of a river flowing from the N. E. and about 700 yards broad, we crossed it and entered Beylah. On approaching the town the housetops were seen literally covered, and the streets thronged with people: as we entered it the crowd set up a wild shout, shrieking and hallooing with all their might, and created such a dust that I was almost suffocated. The ladies also favoured us with a shrill scream, but whether of welcome, admiration, or disgust, I could not exactly make out. The young Jam, we were told, was amongst the spectators. Arab Oosmanany turned off to the palace to report our arrival, and we were conducted to a house which had been prepared for our reception ; it was a most wretched dwelling, but with the exception of the palace, as good as any other in the town. The people crowded into the outer room without ceremony, and although the Jam had sent six soldiers to keep them out, they found it impossible to do so, and I was at last obliged to turn every one out myself and fasten the door: whenever it was opened a general rush was made, and some hard fighting took place between the guard and the mob before the latter could be driven back. Some of the principal inhabitants confiding in their rank, rudely walked into
sat without uttering a word, with a vacant incurious expression of countenance which was no doubt assumed. He is a handsome lad, of thirteen or fourteen years of age, with fine expressive eyes, rather fair complexion, and a profusion of long jet black ringlets falling on each when we saw him in his state robes, which from their peculiar fashion
the inner apartment where we were sitting, but they were soon made sensible of their mistake by being immediately turned out of the house, and told that whoever wished to see us, must first ask and obtain permission
About two hours after our arrival one of the chiefs brought a complimentary message from the Jam, but the real object of his visit it appeared was to ascertain precisely my rank, which having done, he departed ; shortly after Arab Oosmanany came alone, and informed me that the Jam would give me a public audience next day..
Late in the afternoon a chief came to conduct us to the house where the Jam was waiting to receive us, but no horses having been sent I requested him to go back and get three, which in a few minutes made their appearance. Preceded by the presents, and attended by a party of soldiers, we proceeded through the town, and after having passed with some difficulty through several narrow streets, filled with a crowd of people, shouting as if they were mad, alighted at the door of the Kutchery, which, from the dense mass collected round it, was hardly approachable ; on entering the court-yard we were received by one of the chiefs, who taking me by the hand led me towards a covered veranda, or room open in front, where the Jam was seated in state ; although the hall of audience was merely a rude mud building,
without ornament or furniture of any kind, the coup d'oel was rather Ball
imposing, the group drawn up inside being arranged so as to produce the best possible effect. In the centre sat the young chief, on a square platform raised about a foot high, and covered with a carpet and cushions of silk richly embroidered. His relations and chiefs were disposed on either side according to their rank, Ularacky, his chief confidential adviser being seated on his right hand a little in advance, and his tutor, the Hadgi Hafiz, on his left, and the back ground was filled up by a body of well dressed, fine looking military retainers. My conductor having led me up to the musnud, the Jam desired me to sit down on a carpet laid in front of it, and the usual complimentary speeches and inquiries were made by the minister Ularacky, who conducted the whole business. During the time the interview lasted, the young chief, who I imagine had been well tutored for the occasion,
than the chief of a wild tribe of Noomrees. He wore an under dress of crimson and gold kincaub, with trowsers of striped silk, and over this a mantle of pale blue satin richly embroidered with gold and silver thread, colored silk, &c., in the pattern peculiar to the Cashmere shawls. His turban formed of splendid kincaub was extremely large, and adorned with a feather of open gold work, set with emeralds, sapphires, rubies, &c. and another ornament richly set with jewels similar to what I believe is called in Europe a sevigni, from which hung several strings of large pearls. A gold-hilted sword, with shield ornamented with chased gold knobs lay before him, and com pleted his equipment. After the presents had been exhibited, whic appeared to excite the admiration of all present, I took leave, an attended as before by a party of soldiers, amongst whom I distribute a few rupees, as is customary on these occasions, returned to the hous
During the week I remained at Beylah I had several long convers tions with Ularacky, the Jam's minister. Ularacky is the second chief the Jamootry, the particular tribe to which the Jam belongs, a has been chosen by the Jam's mother in consequence to cond the government of the province under her superintendence; he a fine intelligent old man, without any of the prejudices aga Europeans which generally exist in the minds of those natives India who have had no intercourse with them; but being surroun by chiefs belonging to the other tribes, who are jealous of his influe with the reigning family, he is obliged to act with the greatest cau
Beylah contains about 800 houses constructed of sticks and m and between four and five thousand inhabitants ; it covers a small of elevated ground rising above the banks of a river of some flowing from the N. E. which joins the Poorally about a mile fa to the westward, and with the exception of the N. E. quarter, w is surrounded by a ruinous mud wall, is entirely undefended. palace of the Jam is within the walls, and is the only brick buildi the place. About Beylah a large portion of the land is under cultiva and the face of the country presents a pleasing succession of plains and small woods, which with the advantage of being i nearly at the junction of two rivers, and at an equal distance fro mountains on either side, renders it the best spot in the provine could have been selected for the site of the capital. The Poorally about a mile to the westward of it, and spreading over a large of surface forms several swamps, which are fed by numerous sp in some of them rice is cultivated, and the ground about their is every where much broken by deep gullies worn by the flowing into them in the rainy season.
two or three small rivulets, amongst heaps of stones and patches of tamarisk jungle. Having crossed the stream we pursued our way up its bed amongst the bushes, until we gained the narrow ravine through which it flows, and then turning into one of the lateral branches entered Shuhr Roghan. The scene was singular; on either side of a wild broken ravine the rocks rise perpendicularly to the height of four or five hundred feet, and are excavated as far as can be seen ; in some places where there is footing to ascend, up to the summit; these ex
cavations are most numerous along the lower part of the hills, and
Ularacky having communicated to me the decision of the durbar als respecting the survey of Soonmemy, and finding the Jam's answer to In the Government letter would not be ready for two days, I determined
to employ the interval in visiting Shuhr Roghan, an ancient excavated city, situated amongst the mountains to the north ward ; on stating my wish to Ularacky, he at last obtained the requisite permission from the Jam's mother; who as a compliment, sent one of her confidential attendants with her son's state-matchlock to accompany me.
Beyond the town the road for some distance wound through a thick wood occupying the bed of a deserted river ; here and there it opened out into small but picturesque glades, but in general the underwood was so dense, that we had some difficulty in making our way through it: the bushes were full of birds, amongst which I noticed several parrots, and a very pretty little bird with green and golden plumage : it was decidedly the most beautiful spot I had seen in the province. On ascending from the bed of the river we came upon an open plain thickly covered with large rounded stones, and cut up in every direction by deep water courses, and about four miles from the town crossed the dry bed of a river about 500 yards wide; a short distance beyond it is situated the small village of Momadary surrounded by fields, and to the eastward a grove of lofty trees was visible, where my attendants said the Jam had a large garden. From Momadary to the head of the valley the stony plain is thinly dotted with bushes, and every where deeply furrowed by channels; this part of the valley rises slightly to the foot of the hills
, and from its appearance, must have water flowing over its surface in the rainy season, towards the Poorally, from one range of mountains to the other.
About nine miles to the northward of Beylah, a range of low hills sweeps in a semicircle from one side of the valley to the other, and
forms its head. The Poorally river issues from a deep ravine on the Western side, and is about 200 yards broad; it is bounded on one side by steep cliffs , forty or fifty feet high, on the summit
of which there is an ancient burying ground, and the water runs bubbling along it in